Ficus trees are great house plants and very easy to care for after the initial trauma of being moved to a new location. They have a tendency to drop all of their pretty green leaves on the floor when you first bring them home as they seem to despise moving to a new environment. This is the Ficus benjamina or Weeping Fig.

This type of Ficus tree is notorious for being difficult to acclimate to a new environment. In fact, I would have included it on the list of best house plants if it were not for the problems many people have bringing a Ficus tree successfully through its transition to a new home.

Even those that work in the interior landscape business know the trouble that a new Ficus tree can be. However, on the positive side, if you know that it will most likely happen (some Ficus trees barely lose a leaf), you may be a little more prepared to deal with it when it does happen.

I find that most indoor plants are very adaptable as long as changes are made slowly, whether it is a change in location, lighting, or watering. This even applies to the Ficus tree. Ficus trees are often difficult to acclimate because they are quite sensitive to environmental changes and will often react by dropping most of their still green leaves quite suddenly.

Read more about the Weeping Fig Tree or Ficus benjamina acclimation and plant care…

One of the easiest ferns to care for as a house plant is the Birds Nest Fern or Asplenium Nidus. It is more likely to let you get away with a few mistakes than many other ferns. An added attraction is the leaflets that often fall from other ferns, creating quite a mess, are not present on Birds Nest Fern. This makes it a clean fern in my book, unlike the messy Boston Fern. With a Boston Fern, you may end up spend more time cleaning up after it than you do taking care of it! Not so the Birds Nest Fern.

Light green fronds surround a fibrous nest, explaining the name Birds Nest Fern. The fronds are long and blade shaped with a dark midrib. Birds Nest Ferns can grow quite large and the plant pictured here was well over 3 feet tall!

Read more about Asplenium nidus, also known as the Birds Nest Fern…

Dracaena Marginata is one of my favorite house plants. That might be because it is one of the first large indoor plants that I ever owned. I was caring for indoor plants at the huge Xerox Research Center in Palo Alto, California. A 6 foot tall Dracaena Marginata in lower light that was getting a little leggy and it was decided with my contact person, Gary, that it would be replaced with a brand new plant.

He did not want to keep the old Marginata plant and told me that if I wanted it, I should take it home. That is exactly what I did! Planted in a fairly large terra cotta clay pot, the Marginata did quite well at my house. It was placed next to a large sliding glass door in bright, indirect light. Ever since that time, Marginata has been one of my favorite house plants.

Dracaena Marginata plants are really easy to care for once you know how. And they are very beautiful and graceful plants when they are grown in the home. You can let them grow large or easily keep them at the size you want them by pruning back the stalks or “canes” every once in a while.

Read more about Dracaena marginata indoor plants and their care…

 Four months ago, I relocated within Central Florida. I uprooted some of my 10′-12′ tall Rhapis excelsa palms to take with me & potted them in 24″ wide pots, using Miracle Gro’s Moisture Control Potting Soil. I planted 12 plants, at a rate of 4 per pot. Unfortunately, they didn’t do well during the move & only 4(in 1 pot) seem to have survived. The others wilted & seem to be rotting from the top down, though 5′-7′ of each trunk from the ground up are still green. I cut off the dead fronds and there’s been no new growth from the tips, which are now rotted. What can I do to try to save them? Please, advise? Thanks!

Many plant questions don’t have a simple answer. Finding out what is wrong with your plant often takes detective work. You have to ask yourself questions. Did I forget to water my plant last week? Did that move out onto the porch for a day cause this problem? Or the recent power outage that dropped temperatures into the 40s. Did something, anything out of the ordinary happen that my be the cause of my houseplant problem? Did my crazy cat use the plant as a litter box? Haha but you never know. I have some wild stories about plants on interior landscape accounts, but will save for a later date!

It sounds like the person who wrote this email pulled plants out of her/his yard, planted them into pots, and then moved to a new home. May have root damage, transplant shock, could have been exposed to excess heat or cold during the move, or all of these. I don’t know any of these things, so this is a hard question to answer.

A photo of a Rhapis Palm is posted next, in case you may be wondering what a Rhapis excelsa palm is or looks like. Sometimes people use the common name of Lady Palm for Rhapis palm. Just so you know, you cannot just cut back the stalk of a palm plant like you would many other houseplants. That will stop all growth from that stem or stalk. It may or may not put out new shoots from the base of the plant. Anyway, Rhapis excelsa palm picture…

I have had Rhapis palms that were in similar condition that I was able to regrow into healthy, vigorous plants but since I don’t know much about how you plan to use the palms, what kind of light they are in, etc. I can only give a general answer to this. If the roots of your palms are still somewhat healthy, you should cut any stalks that have started to die back off just above soil level. This will help the plant direct energy to growing new healthy stalks. Given some time, the plant should put out new shoots and, if you give it proper light and watering, it should be a nice full plant, if somewhat shorter than you started with, given some time to regrow.

This was all I could really tell her about her plants. Care of Rhapis excelsa palm plants…

Indoor House Plants Care

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While there are many different types of Philodendron, the most commonly seen and used indoors is the Philodendron Cordatum, sometimes called Sweetheart Vine or Heart Leaf Philodendron.

Philodendron Cordatum houseplant has heart-shaped, green leaves that are typically about 2-3 inches across although they can grow much larger outdoors. A trailing or a climbing plant, Philodendron Cordatum is the Philodendron variety most often used as an indoor houseplant.

Philodendron Cordatum houseplant is one of the vining, climbing types of Philodendron and is ideally used as a hanging plant or table plant. The small size of the Philodendron Cordatum also make it perfect for planting in dish gardens or terrariums.

How To Water Philodendron Cordatum

Philodendron Cordatum should be allowed to dry down almost completely in low to medium light but not to point of wilting. In bright light, allow soil to dry down at least 1/2 to 3/4 of its depth. Please see the sections on watering and lighting for your indoor plants, as these most affect your houseplants health and growth.

Other Care Ideas

Philodendron Cordatum will do best if placed in very bright, indirect light. Keep out of direct sun, bright diffused light is preferable. Most philodendrons plants will survive in lower light but, as with most other plants, will becomes leggy under lower light conditions. Additional light from a fluorescent light is suitable if available.

Philodendron Cordatum should be kept at temperatures between 65°F and 80°F, so normal home temperatures suit it well. While it will do well in normal home conditions, Philodendron Cordatum will benefit from having additional humidity. You can provide extra humidity by placing on humidity trays or grouping with other house plants.

Philodendron Cordatum is a trailing plant but can develop aerial roots and attach itself to wood, walls etc. and climb. This is most likely if there is an abundance of humidity in the air. It is a fairly fast growing plant if cared for correctly.

To keep it full, cut back the longest of your Philodendron Cordatum plant’s vines occasionally to encourage new growth. Remove any leaves that become discolored or faded. If you are watering properly and the light is good, you should get some side shoots to help keep your plant full.

Apply to top and lower leaf and stem surfaces of your houseplants, being careful not to saturate the soil. You can clean by hand or use a spray bottle to apply your houseplant cleaning solution. I use a sponge moistened with my cleaning solution to gently wipe the top and lower leaf surfaces. Cleaning of your houseplants should be a regular part of your houseplant care.

Never apply anything to the foliage of your plant while it is in the sun or when the soil is dry. Water first and move to a shady location. I hope this has been helpful as you care for your Philodendron Cordatum houseplant and that all of your flowers and plants are healthy and growing well.

Questions About Philodendron Cordatum?

If you have questions about your indoor plants, you can send an indoor houseplant question. You might also want to visit the PlantAndFlowerInfo.com Facebook Page, a great place to find a compilation of plant, flower, gardening and landscape information, trivia and even humor! Thanks for visiting…

Indoor House Plants Care

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The Peace Lily plant can be anywhere from 12 inches tall to over 5 feet tall, depending on the variety. It has an upright, clumping growth and, with the right care, will produce white flowers, or spathes, throughout much of the year. Additionally, when not in bloom, the Peace Lily makes a fantastic foliage plant and is an easy to care for indoor houseplant.

I have included the Peace Lily plant in my list of the best indoor houseplants and the Peace Lily is a great plant for indoor use. Peace Lily often requires a little more attention than other houseplants on my list and it is prone to dramatic wilting if the soil is allowed to become too dry.

Place Peace Lily in the brightest, indirect light you have available. It should not be positioned in hot, direct sunlight for extended periods of time as your Peace Lily will most likely fade and scorch. Some morning sun would not be harmful and provide bright light throughout the rest of the day.

The more light you can provide the Peace Lily the more likely it is to continue flowering. You can keep a Peace Lily in lower light but it will require less frequent watering and it will also be unlikely to flower much, if it flowers at all.

To help keep your Peace Lily flowering, keep it a bit pot bound. Removing older foliage and flowers as they begin to fade is also beneficial. Occasionally allowing it to dry out almost completely is going to help keep the root system and the plant healthy. A healthy plant is going to produce more new growth, including flowers.

An occasional application of water soluble plant food will also aid in flower production. Use sparingly as it is easy to damage a plant, especially a potted plant, with too much fertilizer. Never apply fertilizer to a dry plant, always water first then feed. I always use less than recommended amounts.

How to Water Peace Lily

Peace Lily plant should be watered thoroughly and then allowed to dry down at least 1/4 to 1/2 of the soil depth. Do not allow to dry completely. It will wilt dramatically if allowed to do so. Keep your Peace Lily’s potting mix more moist in the spring and summer, allowing to dry somewhat more in the fall and winter. Please see the sections on watering and lighting for important care information.

Other Care Ideas for Peace Lily Houseplant

Remove flowers from your Peace Lily as they begin to discolor, fade or spot. The older leaves of the Peace Lily tend to yellow and get black or brown tips over time, so I make it a habit to remove a few of these older leaves every month. Removing older growth on most plants will help promote new growth and will help keep your plant pretty, green and gorgeous. Keep the wide leaves clean and dust free by wiping them gently with a dry cloth.

Removing the pollen producing spike in the center of the flower will prolong flowering. It will also eliminate the messy pollen that would otherwise fall. This is one of the few flowers that makes me sneeze and I am not allergic to anything else. So if you have allergic reactions, you should cut this part of the flower out before it begins to release pollen.

Like any other plant, the Peace Lily can have insect problems. I have seen them with fungus gnats, mealybugs, mites, scale, thrips, aphids and white fly. A mild solution of water and dish soap to wash off the pests should be effective. You can even put your houseplant in the shower and wash it off.

It is a good idea to quarantine any new additions to your house plant family for a few weeks just to be sure there are not any insects that were not noticed at first. Wash down your new house plant with a mixture of water and mild dish detergent. I like to add a few drops of Eucalyptus essential oil or Orange essential oil to my houseplant cleaning solution. Just my preference, and the citrus and Eucalyptus oil may help to repel insects.

Apply to top and lower leaf and stem surfaces of your houseplants, being careful not to saturate the soil. You can clean by hand or use a spray bottle to apply your houseplant cleaning solution to the leaves of your Peace Lily plant. I use a sponge moistened with my cleaning solution to gently wipe the top and lower leaf surfaces. Cleaning of your houseplants should be a regular part of your houseplant care.

Peace Lily Houseplant Question?

Peace Lily houseplant care questions or problems? You can send a houseplant question but before you do, please read this information on watering your indoor houseplants, how to help keep your house plant’s root system healthy and lighting for your houseplants. These are most important for your houseplant’s health and this is some of the information I will refer you to if you send an email.

If you have questions about your indoor houseplants, you can send an indoor house plant question and be sure to visit the PlantAndFlowerInfo.com Facebook Page, a great place to find a compilation of plant, flower, gardening, growing, and landscape information, trivia and even humor! Thanks for visiting PlantAndFlowerInfo.com – Happy gardening and growing!

Indoor House Plants Care

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Common types of Dracaena that are used as houseplants are the Dracaena Marginata, Dracaena Warneckii, Dracaena Massangeana, and the Dracaena Janet Craig. These are some of the best indoor houseplants and make great additions to any home while requiring minimal care. Bright indirect light is best and they will take some morning sun. Most Dracaena houseplants will tolerate lower light levels for some time with reduced watering frequency

Dracaena is grown in a variety of forms including the tip, bush, staggered, character, and standard. This versatile plant can be anywhere from 1 foot tall to 20 feet tall. You will not often find Dracaena plants much larger than 6-7 feet tall except in interior landscapes or in nature.

Your indoor Dracaena plant will do best in a bright, indirect light situation. With good care, your Dracaena houseplant can be maintained in somewhat lower lighting. Do not place in hot, direct sun. Dracaena is prone to root rot if overwatered, especially in lower light. In very hot, sunny locations spider mites can be a problem as can leaf scorch.

How to Water Dracaena Houseplants

In lower to medium light, you should water your Dracaena houseplant when the potting media has dried down at least 3/4 the depth of the pot. In very bright light, allow the soil to dry down about 1/2 to 3/4 of the soil depth before watering thoroughly. Please read the sections on watering your houseplants and lighting for indoor houseplants for more information on keeping your houseplants healthy and growing.

If you have a Dracaena plant in a fairly large pot size (10 inches or more in diameter), it would be a good idea to check the soil with a soil probe or moisture meter to help you make the decision when it is time to water your Dracaena plant. Improper watering is the most common cause of houseplant death.

You will need to be careful watering your Dracaena houseplant. New plants with minimal roots should be watered around the cane only. Established plants with a good root system can be watered thoroughly then allowed to dry almost completely.

Some signs of over-watering may be yellowing leaf tips, root rot and pale new growth with dark tips. More to the dry side is better but don’t be extreme either. The first sign that your Dracaena houseplant needs watering will be a slight drooping of the leaves and leaf margins may start to curl.

Dracaena Houseplant Care

Minimum temperatures for your Dracaena houseplants should be 50 to 55 degrees F. Dracaena is not a cold-tolerant houseplant. Average household temperatures will be fine for your Dracaena houseplant. Keep from direct sun.

Remove lower leaves as they yellow and trim brown tips to the natural leaf shape, as needed. It is normal for a new plant to shed some of its old foliage when it is moved to a new environment. Expect new additions to your home to do this. Given the proper care, it should acclimate and become a beautiful, trouble-free indoor plant.

Keep your Dracaena plant’s foliage clean and initially keep an eye out for insect problems. Mites, mealybug, thrips, and scale can sometimes be a problem but a good wash down with soapy water should be sufficient to control these pests. Just make sure you treat as soon as you notice a problem as they can and will damage your plant.

It is a good idea to quarantine any new additions to your houseplant family for a few weeks just to be sure there are not any insects that were not noticed at first. Wash down your new houseplant with a mixture of water and mild dish detergent. I like to add a few drops of Eucalyptus essential oil or Orange essential oil to my houseplant cleaning solution.

Apply to top and lower leaf and stem surfaces of your houseplants, being careful not to saturate the soil. You can clean by hand or use a spray bottle to apply your houseplant cleaning solution. I use a sponge moistened with my cleaning solution to gently wipe the top and lower leaf surfaces. Cleaning of your houseplants should be a regular part of your basic houseplant care.

Leave your plants in a nursery grow pot with drainage holes at the bottom and set that into the pretty container you purchased for your home. If you have no way to remove excess water from the roots and soil it is more likely that you will have a problem with overwatering your Dracaena houseplant.

Make sure you measure your pots properly as there should be an inch or two of room between the decorative container and the nursery pot. This will provide additional air circulation. If you must direct pot, use a clay pot as this is porous and will allow the root system of your plant to breathe.

Thanks for visiting and come back soon as information on houseplants, pictures and more are being added all of the time. I hope that your indoor tropical plants and all of your plants and flowers are happy, green, and growing because that is why I started this site PlantAndFlowerInfo.com.

If you have questions about your indoor plants, you can send an indoor houseplant question. Visit the PlantAndFlowerInfo.com Facebook Page, a great place to find a compilation of plant, flower, gardening and landscape information, pictures, and sometimes even humor! Thanks again…

Indoor House Plants Care

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Philodendron Silver is similar to the Philodendron Cordatum but has thicker, smaller leaves with a margin of silver. The leaf surface of this lovely foliage houseplant is splashed with silver markings. One of the vining, climbing types of philodendron, the Philodendron Silver and can be used as a hanging plant or table plant. Its small size also makes it ideal for planting in dish gardens or terrariums.

Houseplant questions or problems? You can send a Philodendron Silver houseplant care question, free of charge, with no sign-ups required!

Before you send a question, please read this page and further information on watering your indoor house plants, how to help keep your house plant’s root system healthy and lighting for your houseplants. These are most important for your houseplant’s health and this is some of the information I will refer you to when you send a houseplant or flower question.

Place your Philodendron Silver in medium to bright, indirect lighting. Keep out of direct sun, bright diffused light for your Philodendron Silver is preferable. Philodendrons will survive in lower light but, as with most other houseplants, will becomes leggy and thin under lower light conditions. Additional light from a fluorescent light is beneficial, if available. Temperatures for Philodendron Silver should be kept between 65°F and 80°F.

Philodendron Silver is a trailing plant and will often develop aerial roots and attach itself to wood, walls etc. and climb. This is most likely if there is an abundance of humidity in the air. It is a fairly fast-growing plant if cared for correctly.

Philodendron Silver Plant Watering

In bright, indirect light, water your Philodendron Silver when the soil has dried down about half the depth of the grow pot. Houseplants will not do well if kept too moist for a long period of time. Be sure not to overwater. In low light, allow to dry completely before watering. Please see the sections on watering your indoor plants and lighting for your indoor houseplants for information on the most important part of your houseplant’s health.

Other Philodendron Silver Care

Help keep your Philodendron Silver houseplant full by cutting back the longest of its vines occasionally to encourage new growth. Remove any leaves that become discolored or faded. If you are watering properly and the light is good, you should get some side shoots to help keep your house plant’s foliage full.

Philodendron Silver houseplant is, for the most part, trouble-free but the most common problem would be mealy bugs. These insects can damage your plant and should only be a problem on a new plant or if your plant has been exposed to another plant with mealy bugs. Be sure to check plants before you buy them for any apparent problems.

It is a good idea to quarantine any new additions to your house plant family for a few weeks just to be sure there are not any insects that were not noticed at first. Wash down your new house plant with a mixture of water and mild dish detergent. I like to add a few drops of Eucalyptus essential oil or Orange essential oil to my plant cleaning solution.

Apply to top and lower leaf and stem surfaces being careful not to saturate the soil. You can clean by hand or use a spray bottle to apply your plant cleaning solution. I use a sponge moistened with my cleaning solution to gently wipe the top and lower leaf surfaces. Cleaning of your house plants should be a regular part of your houseplant care. Read more about basic care for all of your houseplants.

Thanks for visiting and come back soon as information on houseplants, pictures and more are being added all of the time. I hope this has been helpful in the care of your Philodendron Silver plant and that all of your indoor tropical plants and all of your plants and flowers are happy, green, and growing because that is why I started this site PlantAndFlowerInfo.com.

Because I also have an interest in websites, build and design, I have taught myself some html, css and other related things. Since I have a website about indoor houseplant care, especially for beginners, I am curious as to what type of information is out on the internet about houseplant care.

I hate to find out that the Google search for “houseplant care” brings up as the top result a website that is giving out information that just is NOT accurate. In other words, made up or just plain false.

The “snippet” tells you that a houseplant is in “high light” if it gets any type of light for more than six hours a day. That is nonsense. The term high light (or medium or low light) is the intensity of the light, measured in foot candles or lumens, not the length of time the plant receives light. That would be called the day length or photoperiod. So the author is just making stuff up.

Be wary of following some of the information that you find on the internet. I know that most people assume that the top results in a search are the best information. Obviously not always true, the person running that site says he drinks beer and writes. That tells you a lot right there.

Just some thoughts from someone whose job has been taking care of houseplants for most of the past 30+ years. You can read more about light and your houseplants here. Happy growing and check out my site, www.PlantAndFlowerInfo.com for help with your houseplant care! Have a great weekend! -The Plant Lady-

One new interior landscape account that I serviced a number of years ago had a Dracaena Warneckii in an out of the way office. I missed this plant for over 3 months and, although it had a number of dried up lower leaves on it, it was still alive and growing! I don’t recommend this, just a point about houseplant perseverance, especially Dracaena Warneckii. Another reason Dracaena Warneckii is on my best houseplants list.

Produced in a variety of forms, Dracaena Warneckii is grown as a tip, bush, staggered, character and cane. Dracaena plants can be anywhere from one foot tall to twenty feet tall or more. It is unusual to find them at that height except in interior landscapes or in nature.

Light for Dracaena Warneckii Houseplant

Warneckii does best in a bright light situation. Most Dracaena will do quite well under artificial lighting alone or a combination of natural light and artificial light. Keep your Dracaena Warneckii in bright, filtered light if available. Direct afternoon sun is not recommended as it can burn the foliage. Bright light is preferred and some morning sun will help keep your Dracaena looking good.

Most dracaenas can be maintained in lower lighting with reduced watering and Warneckii is one house plant that will tolerate lower light levels. It is prone to root rot if over-watered in lower light.

For more information on proper watering of your Dracaena Warneckii houseplant, see below and check out the page on general indoor house plant watering practices.

Watering Dracaena Warneckii

Houseplants should be checked for watering needs once a week. They may not need water every week but it is best to check the soil and groom your plant on the same day each week. That way you are less likely to forget about your plant. In lower to medium light, water when potting soil has dried down at least 3/4 of the depth of the pot. In bright light, allow Dracaena Warneckii houseplant to dry at least 1/2 – 3/4 of the way down and then water thoroughly. Please see watering indoor plants and information on importance of light for your houseplants as these two things will most impact your plant’s health.

Dracaena Warneckii Care Tips

Despite my story about not watering a Dracaena Warneckii for three months, I do not recommend this as a common watering practice. Dracaena can be let to go almost all the way dry but you also risk damaging the foliage by leaving your plant too dry for extended periods of time. You may find bumpy, yellow spots or blotches on your Warneckii houseplant’s lower foliage when it has been allowed to dry too much.

A few notes about Warneckii. It is best placed in a low traffic location. The foliage of Dracaena Warneckii is much more easily damaged than other Dracaenas. Handle with care. Dracaena Warneckii is also prone to damage from excess soluble salts (fertilizers) and fluoride (often found in your water). This can cause yellow blotches, brown tips and leaf margins. This is often made worse by allowing plant to dry too much. Leach plant occasionally and replace soil with fresh media to help alleviate the problem. Dracaena Warneckii can also have root and stem rot problems if kept too wet in low light.


Remove lower leaves as they yellow and trim brown tips to the original leaf shape using sharp clean scissors. It is normal for a new plant to shed its old foliage when it is moved to a new and different environment, so expect new additions to your plant family. Warneckii will lose some of its inner and lower leaves as time goes by.

Trim the leaf edges as needed but once you have lost more than half of the leaf it is best to remove it entirely. This will help encourage new vibrant growth for a great looking plant. Given the proper care, it should acclimate and become a beautiful, trouble free plant.


As your Dracaena Warneckii plant grows taller and loses its lower leaves, you may want to cut the stem or stalk back before the plant becomes too tall. When you cut back the stem, your Dracaena Warneckii will produce new “heads” or shoots from the stem from the leaf nodes below your cut.
Keep your Warneckii house plant’s foliage clean and initially keep an eye out for insect problems. Mites, mealybug, thrips and scale can sometimes be a problem but Warneckii is, for the most part, not prone to many insect problems. Mealybugs are the most likely problem. A good wash down with soapy water should be sufficient to control any pests. If you do notice insects, be sure to address immediately to prevent population growth.

Apply to top and lower leaf and stem surfaces being careful not to saturate the soil. You can clean by hand or use a spray bottle to apply your plant cleaning solution. I use a sponge moistened with my cleaning solution to gently wipe the top and lower leaf surfaces. Cleaning of your house plants should be a regular part of your house plant care. Be extra careful cleaning Dracaena Warneckii as the leaves can be easily damaged.

Dracaena Warneckii Plant Care Question?

If you have a question about your Dracaena warneckii houseplant or other houseplants, you can send me an email and I will do my best to help you find an answer to your question or a solution to your problem. You can contact me here. Thanks for visiting!